An Italian Girl In... Vacation Mode

August in Italy is by definition the month for vacation. We often complain because everything stops and you don't find even a bottle of fresh milk unless in big centres, but when we face vacation planning every year it's the same: we all want to go away in August. Why? Just because it's August and Italians are not made to work in August!  So here we are, another August has arrived and there is only one dominating topic of discussion all over the Country: vacation. People exchange suggestions about places to visit, friends try to organize the classical "pizza-before-we leave" as if they weren't to see each other for ages, women rush to the hair dresser, everything is procrastinated "let's see that after vacation", all over shops stick to their close door the motto "Chiuso per ferie".

A whole Country enters the vacation mode until September arrives, even a crowded, international city like Milan is calm (you can even take a seat on the subway on your way to the office).
I'm affected by this August sindrome as well, hence counting down the days to be off for two weeks, backpacking across the Mediterranean. There is something magic in these days that repeats every year: people are happy, altogether at the same time, as they are preparing for something they've been longing for, and they get relaxed. My count-down is ticking over - as everything in neighborhood gets closed and I wander around to find a kebab for dinner and someone still home for a chat. This atmosphere drives me more and more excited about the places I'll visit, persons I'll encounter, adventures I'll bump into...but this will be part of the next story...

Buon viaggio!

An Italian Girl in... Athens

Acropolis view

The first thing an Italian is told when landing in Greece is: “Italians and Greeks, one face one race”. No matter if the Italian in front of them is a strawberry blonde Milanese looking for a full-screen sun cream in order not to get burnt while visiting the Acropolis.

This is actually a good point: Italians and Greeks share some cultural features that make each other feel at home when traveling in their respective Countries.

We speak loud. We are coffee addicts. We have a great past, a troubled present and a very uncertain future. Our parents call us “my baby” till we become parents ourselves and don’t understand why we should go and live on our own – maybe in another town or abroad - when we can comfortably stay at home with them. We love eating well, much and with many friends. We have a taste for what is beautiful. Athens is a concentrate of all these aspects. 

The city centre is relatively small, so you can easily visit the most beautiful parts in a long week-end: anyway if you have the chance to stay longer, there are several day trips that you can do in the outskirts.  

So, pack your stuff and don’t forget:

1)     A pair of sunglasses: not only because as an Italian I’m a maniac of big fashionable sunglasses even when it snows, but also because the summer in Athens is very hot and sunny and they may be truly essential (contact me if you need help with the model!).

2)     A pair of comfortable sneakers to climb up and down the Acropolis.

3)     A swimwear for a trip to Glyfada beach if it gets too hot.

Be aware that Athens is either love or hate: there’s no an intermediate solution. I’ve been speaking with people disappointed by the (apparently experienced) lack of organization and order of the city and at the same time I’ve exchanged enthusiastic memories, a sort of melancholy of Greek landscapes and suggestions for future visits with others who- like me - totally fell in love for Athens and Greece since the first time they touched Socrates’ land.  

Are you wondering why I’m addicted to Athens? There you go:

Monastiraki

1)     It is the place where Western culture was born: have a review to your school books before leaving. You’ll realize that the key pillars of our society derive from ancient Greece heritage. Few examples? The concept of democracy was firstly introduced by Athens Boule (government) in the Vth century B.C. Medical treatments and the concept of hospitals developed thanks to Hippocrates and its fellows…They also improved mathematics…ok, nobody’s perfect!

2)     It is the place where arts were introduced: do you enjoy a night out to the theatre? Or a good concert? Are you a dancer or a writer? Forget about all of that if it weren’t for the Athenians!

3)     The Acropolis view when the sun sets: a walk into the Acropolis area is one of the things that everyone should do at least once in a life. The complex was firstly conceived   in the VIIth cent B.C. but its final shape was conceived only in the V cent, thanks two men: the stateman Periclis, the Acropolis’ mind, and the artist Phidias, the Acropolis’ heart. In that period Athens was the top of the world and you can still feel the charm of its great history at the end of the day, when the crowd of tourists has left, the Levantine breeze caresses the site marbles and another sunset – after 2.500 years – takes place.

4)     Seeing the place where Socrates went praying in the ancient Agora: the ancient Agorà is located beneath the Acropolis hill and it’s what remains of the actual ancient polis of Athens. Indeed the Acropolis was the religious and celebrative part of the city, while the Agorà was the commercial and residential area. The main “celebs” of ancient times passed through it. Including Aristoteles, Plato and friends.

5)     Ancient melting into contemporary: at the Acropolis Museum, a masterpiece of modern architecture which astonishingly fits the archaeological scenario in which it was constructed.  

6)     Going to open-aired Cine Paris eyeing the Parthenon: in the middle of Plaka, in Kydathinaion Street 22, there’s a small cinema that offers an international program of movies to watch on the open-aired roof with view on the lightened Acropolis. 

7)     Having a Greek coffee in a kafeneion: for an Italian coffee breaks are a crucial moment of the day. As far as I saw, the Greeks are the only people that are keener than us on having a coffee with their friends. I strongly suggest you to spend some time to look for the café that mostly fits your tastes in Athens, so to adapt to this habit. Some tips:

- Monastikari offers some very old kafeneia mainly crowded with the local working class: Greek coffee quality granted as well as a chat with an Athenian.

Sounio Beach view from Poseidon Temple

- Syntagma patisseries: preferred by Athens professionals, as they offer Greek products with a Northern European service. Tasty…but much less authentic.  

- Dioskuri café: a café straight at the foot of the Acropolis, straight in the middle of history.

     8) Refreshing in Glyfada or Sounio: the advantage of being in a capital city with an escape to some of the best landscapes in the Mediterranean. Glyfada, Athens’ beach, as well as Sounio are easily reachable by bus. The first offers sandy beaches and glam lounge bar. The second, the typical blue of the Aegean Sea and the rests of a temple to Poseidon – the God of the seas, well-known for the scenario it offers at the sunset. The beach is an easy walk far from the site: literally a “divine” swim.

9)     Buying home-made leather sandals and bags: both in Monastiraki Flea Market and in Psirri you can find leather sandals and accessories still made according to traditions. A visit to the sandals’ guru Stavros Melissinos’ small and cosy shop is a must-have!

10) Rembetiko and Roses: Greece has an old (of course) and wide musical tradition, which is still widely performed and danced by people of all ages. Rembetiko originated in the Greek-Turkish community of Izmir back in the 19^th cent, when that part of Turkey was actually under Greece influence. Nowadays, it is still played with the same instruments, the bouzouki mandolin and guitar, it still speaks of love and passion and it’s still danced all night long by the people in smoky Rembetika kafeneia. The boys get into the café with bunches of roses…throwing roses is the traditional way to invite a girl on the Rembetiko dancefloor. So, girls on your way to Athens: add to the “don’t forget” list a nice party dress and don't be shy, dancing rembetiko is much easier than you think!       

I could actually go on forever with my list, as I’m back to Athens almost once a year as my departure point to the rest of Greece. But what actually brings me back again and again to this coastal land with a necklace of islands is its people: open-minded, kind with guests, proud of their culture and willing to share it with foreigners. Each travel is connected to a new friend, a new personal history, a new perspective heard or discussed. And that’s exactly what I think traveling is about.

Kalo taxidi!

An Italian Girl in... PARIS

Despite a centuries-old rivalry between Italians and French, I have to admit: there’s no such place as Paris and no better place to start this section about travelling. La ville lumière is the best expression of the French grandeur. Both in positive or negative terms. Be prepared to experience the top: this is Paris!

Let’s start from some “must-haves” to get the best out of this amazing city and its culture.

1)     A good dictionary: it doesn’t matter how advance you are: Parisians love to speak their  language - even with foreigners - so any effort on your side will be compensated with polite and helpful answers. A good French becomes essential if you plan a longer stay: any job post at any level requires applicants basic or fluent French: don’t forget to take a language course if you want to settle there for some months.

2)     A “métro” map: the public transport “par excellence”. The subway brings you wherever and some of the central stations would actually deserve a visit: they host shopping malls, wall paintings and a lively snapshot of the city life.

3)     A city map by “arrodissements”: the arrodissements are the twenty districts in which Paris is divided. The people use to locate everything on the basis of the relevant arrodissement, that’s why it’s important to have an idea of their split.

4)     A French phone number: any French phone company makes good deals for a mobile + rechargeable card with several options to call abroad.

5)     Your laptop/Ipad: to enjoy the free wi-fi connection in almost every spot of Paris.

Beside the landmarks and places that are well documented in each of the hundreds publications about the French capital, there are some places and experiences that I strongly recommend to fully appreciate the magic atmosphere and the historical heritage of Paris. Of course the view on top of the Eiffel Tower, the masterpieces at the Louvre museum and the architecture of Notre-Dame de Paris are unforgettable, however I suggest you to take some time out of the touristic itineraries. It’s in those boulevards where there is nothing to sightsee that Paris is just “Paris”: that is, bloody charming!

Here you have my “best ten”: just some tips to begin with, I’m sure you’ll quickly find your own way to be Parisian, as I found mine.

1)     Une soirée au cinema (a night out to the cinema): remember that you are in the homeland of cinema. The French are very fond of it and they have a rich movie industry that produces witty comedies and is quite active in investing on young directors (definitely a point where our “cousins” on the other side of the Alps gain on us). There’s a wide choice, you just have to figure out what matches your tastes. For those who enjoy sarcastic comedies I recommend movies by Agnès Jaoui.

     2) Une promenade dans le Marais (a walk in the Marais district): le Marais (3^rd and 4^th arr.) is one of the most charming areas in Paris as it preserves its ancient architecture. During the day you can enjoy (window)-shopping in its show rooms and small boutiques or visit a museum (Musée Picasso, Rue de Thorigny; Musée Carnavalet, Rue de Sévigné). Don’t miss a walk in the former Jewish ghetto, where you can taste a piece of Mediterranean at Chez Marianne, in rue des Hospitalières-Saint Gervais. At night you can go for a drink in one of its cafés and clubs. If you really want to be parisien I suggest Au petit fer à cheval: there’s nothing more Parisian than this.

     3)“Coup de theatre” (going to the theatre): if you speak some French, the best choice is a night of Comédie Française: the comedy in France dates back to the XVII century. Salle Richelieu or Studio-Théâtre usually have a good season at affordable prices. If you are a fan of musicals you should opt for Théatre du Châtelet.  

4)     Un bouquin sur la Seine (a book on the Seine): on the left bank of the Seine (the well-known Rive Gauche), where the Quartier Latin begins, you can find several bouquinistes: bookstalls where you can get the French literature masterpieces for few euros. A nice way to improve your French.

5)     Un thé chez Mariage Frères (a cup of tea at Mariage Frères): the best teas in Paris are sold here since 1854. It has several salons in Paris, the best one is in the 8^th arr. (Faubourg Saint-Honoré). Forget about your diet for one day and indulge on some home-made patisserie with your tea: definitely worth some extra jogging on the following morning.

6)      Un après-midi en Velib’ (an afternoon by Velib’): the Velib’ are Paris public bikes for rental. For less than 10 euros you can get a bike for two hours and enjoy a tour around the town centre, along the Seine or in a park.

7)     Chez les marchands à Belleville (at Belleville’s market): the exotic soul of Paris. Belleville area is a melting pot of people from all over the world – especially Maghreb - who migrated here in the XX century. The Saturday morning market is the best expression of multicultural France: a colourful mix of fruits, spices, ethnic food, flowers and a melting pot of languages. Basically, a picture of the modern French society.

8)     "Boite à photos" (“photo box”): You cannot miss the chance to portrait your own Paris. Going out randomly with a camera, taking pictures of people, places, situations will result in the best souvenir you can bring home. Last but not least: spend a couple of hours in La Maison Européenne de la Photographie, or MEP (rue François Miron, 4^th arr.).

    9) 
Un apéro en peniche (a drink on a house boat): if you wonder how it would be like to live on those cute house boats along the Seine, an evening on a peniche is the best way to make up your mind about that (at a more reasonable price than buying one). Many of them are now used as restaurants offering a cruise along the river while dining. Also a great idea to celebrate a birthday, an anniversary or to surprise a person…got the message, you boys???

  10) “Une Perrier citron” (a glass of Perrier with lemon): a product the French are proud of – almost as they are of their wines – this is not simply water but an actual drink to order when going out. Nothing to do with the widely served tab water or normal mineral waters: “c’est une Perrier”, in its green VAP bottle, very sparkling, very French. The best way to taste it is with some lemon slices, sitting calmly a bistrot pavement when the sun shines above Paris.

Bon voyage!