Armed and Dangerous - With My New Camera

 A Travel Essay By Emily Espinosa

When I decided to go on tour with Blue Lake’s International Youth Symphony Orchestra (IYSO) I thought it was going to be all about the music. The week we spent at camp prior to our departure for Europe only enforced this idea - what with rehearsals eight hours a day and concerts every night. Once we arrived in Paris and began our journey through France, Germany, and Belgium, everything changed. No longer did my days revolve around rehearsals and playing my violin. Yes, we still rehearsed and gave concerts, and Sheherazade was constantly running through my head. However, it was the people I met and the places I saw that really made this trip an incredible and memorable experience. Thank goodness I heeded Rick’s advice to buy a camera (the Canon PowerShot SX130) to help me record my adventures. 

As with any new device, it took me quite a while to figure out how to work it. Because we travelled everywhere by bus, I had plenty of time and opportunities to try it out. I liked what I discovered. I brought an immense 48 pack of AA batteries, thinking that I would blow through them. I probably would have too, if I hadn’t decided to use a couple Advanced Lithium ones first. It had been a whole week of the same two batteries before I realized that I needed to start using up the regular ones. I was not about to take those home with me, especially with a 30 lb. weight limit.

My camera was my constant companion during the trip. It was there when we accidentally left some people behind and drove away with them running after the bus. It was also there when we ran into Snoop Dogg at the airport. It helped me capture the magic of Europe.

We were hosted in six different communities throughout the three countries. Each one offered a completely different experience. They varied from villages over a thousand years old, cities that reminded me of New York, to the beautiful Alps of Southern France. We stayed with families in each of the stops. I loved it! I felt like I really experienced Europe because I lived with real Europeans and got to try out their lifestyles for a few days. All of my host families were great, for the most part, and took me all sorts of places. We saw castles, churches, visited historic cities, saw more churches, of course shopping, and even more churches. I think the only reason I didn’t gain fifty pounds during the trip was because of all the walking and all the stairs we climbed. In the city of Ulm, we climbed to the top of the tallest church in the world. All 768 steps of it! Oh, then there was the mountain. In Villard-Bonnot, France, we climbed to the top of a mountain on our free day. Honestly, I thought it was a joke when they told us we were going to, but no, we really climbed a mountain. It was no easy hike. It had rained the day before and there were literally streams of mud flowing down the mountainside. But, the view from the top was breathtaking.

Now my journey is over and I’ve reached the stage where I’m not sure if I’m happy to be home, or sad to not be in Europe. One thing that makes me content is the fact that I will always have 2,000 pictures of memories to look back on and relive. The PowerShot really is a wonderful camera. It has an amazingly clear and big digital screen so you can view your pictures easily. It has an incredible zoom that makes far off sites seem mere feet away. Nevertheless, my favorite aspect of my camera is how it feels in my hands. It makes me feel like I’m ready to face any adventure that comes my way. And I am.

Underwater Photography Magazine Coming To Newsstands Jan 2012

Cover Photo: Imran Ahmad (Sample only. Subject to change)

Scuba Diver Through the Lens will be debuting in November at the DEMA 2011 show held in Florida.  It will hit newsstands on January 1st, 2012 and run quarterly in both print and digital formats.

The new magazine is designed to educate the global underwater photography and videography community on equipment, technique and travel destinations as well as highlight the world's top underwater image-makers. 

The magazine is a collaboration between Scuba Diver AustralAsia, DivePhotoGuide, and Edition Fifty Fathoms.  An editor from each source will represent their respective region.  

I first heard about this fantastic new publication from the DivePhotoGuide Twitter page.  DPG has proven to be a valuable resource for technical information on underwater photography and videography.  It features guides on technique and traveling; equipment reviews; daily community news; monthly contests; and beautiful photo galleries.  The images I've found on DPG are among the coolest I've ever seen - both above and below sea level.  Here's a sample of what you might come across:

Eric Cheng

Mark Melnick

Thomas Peschak

If you're interested in pursuing underwater photography, but don't have the extra cash for a fancy rig, check out the Canon SX230 and its underwater housing on www.BandH.com.  For less than $600 you can get a great new pocket camera and an introduction to a very addictive hobby.

- RA

An Italian Girl in... Athens

Acropolis view

The first thing an Italian is told when landing in Greece is: “Italians and Greeks, one face one race”. No matter if the Italian in front of them is a strawberry blonde Milanese looking for a full-screen sun cream in order not to get burnt while visiting the Acropolis.

This is actually a good point: Italians and Greeks share some cultural features that make each other feel at home when traveling in their respective Countries.

We speak loud. We are coffee addicts. We have a great past, a troubled present and a very uncertain future. Our parents call us “my baby” till we become parents ourselves and don’t understand why we should go and live on our own – maybe in another town or abroad - when we can comfortably stay at home with them. We love eating well, much and with many friends. We have a taste for what is beautiful. Athens is a concentrate of all these aspects. 

The city centre is relatively small, so you can easily visit the most beautiful parts in a long week-end: anyway if you have the chance to stay longer, there are several day trips that you can do in the outskirts.  

So, pack your stuff and don’t forget:

1)     A pair of sunglasses: not only because as an Italian I’m a maniac of big fashionable sunglasses even when it snows, but also because the summer in Athens is very hot and sunny and they may be truly essential (contact me if you need help with the model!).

2)     A pair of comfortable sneakers to climb up and down the Acropolis.

3)     A swimwear for a trip to Glyfada beach if it gets too hot.

Be aware that Athens is either love or hate: there’s no an intermediate solution. I’ve been speaking with people disappointed by the (apparently experienced) lack of organization and order of the city and at the same time I’ve exchanged enthusiastic memories, a sort of melancholy of Greek landscapes and suggestions for future visits with others who- like me - totally fell in love for Athens and Greece since the first time they touched Socrates’ land.  

Are you wondering why I’m addicted to Athens? There you go:

Monastiraki

1)     It is the place where Western culture was born: have a review to your school books before leaving. You’ll realize that the key pillars of our society derive from ancient Greece heritage. Few examples? The concept of democracy was firstly introduced by Athens Boule (government) in the Vth century B.C. Medical treatments and the concept of hospitals developed thanks to Hippocrates and its fellows…They also improved mathematics…ok, nobody’s perfect!

2)     It is the place where arts were introduced: do you enjoy a night out to the theatre? Or a good concert? Are you a dancer or a writer? Forget about all of that if it weren’t for the Athenians!

3)     The Acropolis view when the sun sets: a walk into the Acropolis area is one of the things that everyone should do at least once in a life. The complex was firstly conceived   in the VIIth cent B.C. but its final shape was conceived only in the V cent, thanks two men: the stateman Periclis, the Acropolis’ mind, and the artist Phidias, the Acropolis’ heart. In that period Athens was the top of the world and you can still feel the charm of its great history at the end of the day, when the crowd of tourists has left, the Levantine breeze caresses the site marbles and another sunset – after 2.500 years – takes place.

4)     Seeing the place where Socrates went praying in the ancient Agora: the ancient Agorà is located beneath the Acropolis hill and it’s what remains of the actual ancient polis of Athens. Indeed the Acropolis was the religious and celebrative part of the city, while the Agorà was the commercial and residential area. The main “celebs” of ancient times passed through it. Including Aristoteles, Plato and friends.

5)     Ancient melting into contemporary: at the Acropolis Museum, a masterpiece of modern architecture which astonishingly fits the archaeological scenario in which it was constructed.  

6)     Going to open-aired Cine Paris eyeing the Parthenon: in the middle of Plaka, in Kydathinaion Street 22, there’s a small cinema that offers an international program of movies to watch on the open-aired roof with view on the lightened Acropolis. 

7)     Having a Greek coffee in a kafeneion: for an Italian coffee breaks are a crucial moment of the day. As far as I saw, the Greeks are the only people that are keener than us on having a coffee with their friends. I strongly suggest you to spend some time to look for the café that mostly fits your tastes in Athens, so to adapt to this habit. Some tips:

- Monastikari offers some very old kafeneia mainly crowded with the local working class: Greek coffee quality granted as well as a chat with an Athenian.

Sounio Beach view from Poseidon Temple

- Syntagma patisseries: preferred by Athens professionals, as they offer Greek products with a Northern European service. Tasty…but much less authentic.  

- Dioskuri café: a café straight at the foot of the Acropolis, straight in the middle of history.

     8) Refreshing in Glyfada or Sounio: the advantage of being in a capital city with an escape to some of the best landscapes in the Mediterranean. Glyfada, Athens’ beach, as well as Sounio are easily reachable by bus. The first offers sandy beaches and glam lounge bar. The second, the typical blue of the Aegean Sea and the rests of a temple to Poseidon – the God of the seas, well-known for the scenario it offers at the sunset. The beach is an easy walk far from the site: literally a “divine” swim.

9)     Buying home-made leather sandals and bags: both in Monastiraki Flea Market and in Psirri you can find leather sandals and accessories still made according to traditions. A visit to the sandals’ guru Stavros Melissinos’ small and cosy shop is a must-have!

10) Rembetiko and Roses: Greece has an old (of course) and wide musical tradition, which is still widely performed and danced by people of all ages. Rembetiko originated in the Greek-Turkish community of Izmir back in the 19^th cent, when that part of Turkey was actually under Greece influence. Nowadays, it is still played with the same instruments, the bouzouki mandolin and guitar, it still speaks of love and passion and it’s still danced all night long by the people in smoky Rembetika kafeneia. The boys get into the café with bunches of roses…throwing roses is the traditional way to invite a girl on the Rembetiko dancefloor. So, girls on your way to Athens: add to the “don’t forget” list a nice party dress and don't be shy, dancing rembetiko is much easier than you think!       

I could actually go on forever with my list, as I’m back to Athens almost once a year as my departure point to the rest of Greece. But what actually brings me back again and again to this coastal land with a necklace of islands is its people: open-minded, kind with guests, proud of their culture and willing to share it with foreigners. Each travel is connected to a new friend, a new personal history, a new perspective heard or discussed. And that’s exactly what I think traveling is about.

Kalo taxidi!

"Travelixer" in Chicago Hosted by HI-C and STA Travel on July 20th

Hey guys, the fine people at Hostelling International Chicago and STA Travel are throwing their 3rd annual TRAVELIXER at the Butterfly Social Lounge on Wednesday July 20. 

The event will feature a photo contest, free giveaways, dancing, and plenty of networking amongst like-minded people.

Here are the details:

Chicago's most exciting travel party, Travelixir, is back to celebrate the world traveler in you!

Come join Chicagoans who love to travel, those that aspire to travel, and HI-Chicago guests for the 3rd installation of this great party!

WHEN: Wednesday, July 20th from 7-10pm

WHERE: Butterfly Social Club, 722 W Grand Ave - right off the Grand Blue Line stop

WHAT: A FREE party sponsored by HI-Chicago and STA Travel

PHOTO CONTEST: A travel photo contest - party-goers vote on their favorite, and the winner gets a $150 travel voucher (good for airfare, accommodations, and other travel-related costs). The theme for this contest is: "Festivus."

AND EVEN MORE: Free giveaways, food samples, world music DJ, MCing by Adam Welton, dancing, networking with like-minded internationalists

DRINK SPECIALS: $5 Absolut cocktails & $1 off all beers (and free shot with the purchase of any beer!)

***ENTER THE CONTEST***
E-mail TRAVELIXIR@hiusa.org with 1 photo from your travels that depicts a holiday or festival. Include a title for your photo. Submit your photos by Tuesday, July 19th at 5pm.  You must be present at the party to win!  Follow the photo submissions on HI-Chicago's Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/HostellingInternationalChicago. 

Hope to see you there!

Life, Love, and Laughter in Canada

About an hour outside of Chicago the roads turned to Hell.  There were construction cones as far as the eye could see.  Instead of a two-lane highway, the road was split into two single lanes divided by paving equipment.  The sign above read, “Welcome to Pure Michigan.”  It fit.

The Grotto

Construction zones aside, I had a nice trip to Canada with my girlfriend Amy.  We made our annual 12-hour drive up to Barrow Bay to spend time with her family.  The weekend was full of good food, great laughs, and new memories with old friends.  

John and I swimming across the bay.

To kick it all off, Amy’s cousin John and I decided we would swim across the bay.  We never got a straight answer on what the exact distance is.  The best guess anyone had was that it’s “about a thumb length on the map.”  We never found said map.  Anyway, it took us about 45 minutes to swim it. Amy, her brother Trevor, and her cousin Scott followed along in canoes. 

“We’ll sing some motivational songs,” Amy said.  Trevor started into Under the Sea.  Amy was quick to remind him that the goal was to stay above the sea (or lake in our case). We all laughed.

The water had to be around 60 degrees.  I didn’t think we would make it further than 100 yards before getting too cold and turning back.  We made it though and it felt great!  About halfway through we had worked up a sweat and the water just seemed refreshing.  Once we reached the other side it was a different story.  We were so numb that we could barely walk up the slippery limestone sheets that line the shore.  We hitched a ride back to where we started.  Everyone hit the sauna after dinner.

Making a splash at The Grotto.

The following day we played a few group games ala Minute To Win It.  I learned that I could place a cookie on my forehead and get it into my mouth without using my hands.  That’s my kinda summer school. We also got in a few games of bags and ladder golf.  After that we were back on the water – this time in a speedboat.  A few of the cousins took turns water skiing, wakeboarding, and kneeboarding.  I had never been kneeboarding before and gave it a shot.  Getting up and into the glide was harder than I thought it would be, but I managed to get a couple of spins in.  Joey stole the show though, blowing kisses and waving to the crowd on the shore.  He'll work in entertainment someday.  The water was still freezing.  After my turn I was back in the boat with a drink in hand, cuddling close with Amy as we headed back for the harbor.  She's my best friend.  Time with her, a little music, and a quick adrenaline rush is all I need.

On the third day we all went cliff jumping at The Grotto in one of Canada’s National Parks.  Some people took the boat up and anchored offshore.  The other group drove up and hiked out to it after parking.  We had been to The Grotto once before and I knew I had to bring my GoPro Hero if we ever went out there again.  Unfortunately I neglected to charge the battery before leaving and could only shoot the first few jumps.  Oh well, another reason to go back I suppose :-)

-RA

(Right: swallowed by cold water after taking a dive.

 Below: Joe swims up for air and warm sunlight.)

An Italian Girl in... PARIS

Despite a centuries-old rivalry between Italians and French, I have to admit: there’s no such place as Paris and no better place to start this section about travelling. La ville lumière is the best expression of the French grandeur. Both in positive or negative terms. Be prepared to experience the top: this is Paris!

Let’s start from some “must-haves” to get the best out of this amazing city and its culture.

1)     A good dictionary: it doesn’t matter how advance you are: Parisians love to speak their  language - even with foreigners - so any effort on your side will be compensated with polite and helpful answers. A good French becomes essential if you plan a longer stay: any job post at any level requires applicants basic or fluent French: don’t forget to take a language course if you want to settle there for some months.

2)     A “métro” map: the public transport “par excellence”. The subway brings you wherever and some of the central stations would actually deserve a visit: they host shopping malls, wall paintings and a lively snapshot of the city life.

3)     A city map by “arrodissements”: the arrodissements are the twenty districts in which Paris is divided. The people use to locate everything on the basis of the relevant arrodissement, that’s why it’s important to have an idea of their split.

4)     A French phone number: any French phone company makes good deals for a mobile + rechargeable card with several options to call abroad.

5)     Your laptop/Ipad: to enjoy the free wi-fi connection in almost every spot of Paris.

Beside the landmarks and places that are well documented in each of the hundreds publications about the French capital, there are some places and experiences that I strongly recommend to fully appreciate the magic atmosphere and the historical heritage of Paris. Of course the view on top of the Eiffel Tower, the masterpieces at the Louvre museum and the architecture of Notre-Dame de Paris are unforgettable, however I suggest you to take some time out of the touristic itineraries. It’s in those boulevards where there is nothing to sightsee that Paris is just “Paris”: that is, bloody charming!

Here you have my “best ten”: just some tips to begin with, I’m sure you’ll quickly find your own way to be Parisian, as I found mine.

1)     Une soirée au cinema (a night out to the cinema): remember that you are in the homeland of cinema. The French are very fond of it and they have a rich movie industry that produces witty comedies and is quite active in investing on young directors (definitely a point where our “cousins” on the other side of the Alps gain on us). There’s a wide choice, you just have to figure out what matches your tastes. For those who enjoy sarcastic comedies I recommend movies by Agnès Jaoui.

     2) Une promenade dans le Marais (a walk in the Marais district): le Marais (3^rd and 4^th arr.) is one of the most charming areas in Paris as it preserves its ancient architecture. During the day you can enjoy (window)-shopping in its show rooms and small boutiques or visit a museum (Musée Picasso, Rue de Thorigny; Musée Carnavalet, Rue de Sévigné). Don’t miss a walk in the former Jewish ghetto, where you can taste a piece of Mediterranean at Chez Marianne, in rue des Hospitalières-Saint Gervais. At night you can go for a drink in one of its cafés and clubs. If you really want to be parisien I suggest Au petit fer à cheval: there’s nothing more Parisian than this.

     3)“Coup de theatre” (going to the theatre): if you speak some French, the best choice is a night of Comédie Française: the comedy in France dates back to the XVII century. Salle Richelieu or Studio-Théâtre usually have a good season at affordable prices. If you are a fan of musicals you should opt for Théatre du Châtelet.  

4)     Un bouquin sur la Seine (a book on the Seine): on the left bank of the Seine (the well-known Rive Gauche), where the Quartier Latin begins, you can find several bouquinistes: bookstalls where you can get the French literature masterpieces for few euros. A nice way to improve your French.

5)     Un thé chez Mariage Frères (a cup of tea at Mariage Frères): the best teas in Paris are sold here since 1854. It has several salons in Paris, the best one is in the 8^th arr. (Faubourg Saint-Honoré). Forget about your diet for one day and indulge on some home-made patisserie with your tea: definitely worth some extra jogging on the following morning.

6)      Un après-midi en Velib’ (an afternoon by Velib’): the Velib’ are Paris public bikes for rental. For less than 10 euros you can get a bike for two hours and enjoy a tour around the town centre, along the Seine or in a park.

7)     Chez les marchands à Belleville (at Belleville’s market): the exotic soul of Paris. Belleville area is a melting pot of people from all over the world – especially Maghreb - who migrated here in the XX century. The Saturday morning market is the best expression of multicultural France: a colourful mix of fruits, spices, ethnic food, flowers and a melting pot of languages. Basically, a picture of the modern French society.

8)     "Boite à photos" (“photo box”): You cannot miss the chance to portrait your own Paris. Going out randomly with a camera, taking pictures of people, places, situations will result in the best souvenir you can bring home. Last but not least: spend a couple of hours in La Maison Européenne de la Photographie, or MEP (rue François Miron, 4^th arr.).

    9) 
Un apéro en peniche (a drink on a house boat): if you wonder how it would be like to live on those cute house boats along the Seine, an evening on a peniche is the best way to make up your mind about that (at a more reasonable price than buying one). Many of them are now used as restaurants offering a cruise along the river while dining. Also a great idea to celebrate a birthday, an anniversary or to surprise a person…got the message, you boys???

  10) “Une Perrier citron” (a glass of Perrier with lemon): a product the French are proud of – almost as they are of their wines – this is not simply water but an actual drink to order when going out. Nothing to do with the widely served tab water or normal mineral waters: “c’est une Perrier”, in its green VAP bottle, very sparkling, very French. The best way to taste it is with some lemon slices, sitting calmly a bistrot pavement when the sun shines above Paris.

Bon voyage!

Video Vault: A Brokedown Melody

A Broke Down Melody is probable the most chill surf film out there.  It transcends other surf films with it's (relatively) lack of pro riding shots.  You can still see great segments from: Kelly Slater, Gerry Lopez, Jack Johnson, Mike Todd, Mark Cunningham, C.J. Hobgood, the Wilmots, and of course the Malloys. However, they're just out there enjoying waves rather than working on new moves for the film to debut.  It's a refreshing view of a culture that is often over-saturated with high-action hype.  It also includes segments about body surfing, a young Jamaican surf team, and several interviews about enjoying the simple pleasures surfing provides.  The segment below will give you a great idea of what it's all about.  Produced by Woodshed Films.

-RA

Postcards from Iceland

Photographs by Lauren Ahearn.

Dropping in with Pararescueman Zac Hoeh

When Zac Hoeh isn’t jumping out of planes or helicopters, he tries to spend time in San Diego, writing, and getting some running in.  He looks forward to surfing and snowboarding on vacations, along with hiking with his wife (sometimes that means trying to find her on a mountain in Austria).  He’s a born traveler and is always someplace new.  Thanks to Facebook, I was able to catch up with him this weekend and ask a few questions about how he came to be a pararescueman.

 

What made you decide to become a paratrooper?

Technically, we're pararescuemen. They call us para-jumpers.  That's where PJ comes from. What made me do it is simple: it is the noblest profession on this planet.  “These things we do so that others may live,” was something I wanted to live by. Parachuting was secondary.

Had you been parachuting before?

I had never jumped before. The thought was always appealing, but I was poor, and jumping as a civilian is expensive.

What was your first jump like?

I suppose I had two first jumps.

My first static line jump was easy. We'd been sitting around the hanger for five hours; everyone wants out of their harness; has to pee; wants to get this weight off their back; and the easiest, and fastest, way to do that is to jump out the door, and get to the ground. Nerves are a factor, but this is what we do. Your buddies wouldn't let you live it down if you didn't jump. Plus you'd lose your job.

My first HALO jump - that was awesome. The packs are more comfortable even though they're heavier, and the training is more detailed and personal, so you have a better understanding of everything. You know which buckles are supposed to hold you and how. So, after I spent a ten minute plane ride checking everything five times, I just had to admit to myself: I'm ready, this is doable. You have to have the courage to accept, and put into action, your ideals. You have to get out of your way, because your mind isn't designed to accept jumping from up there as a means of self-preservation. Skydiving is a physical analogy for how far we have intellectually come. We understand that we can overcome barriers. Our courage allows us to do that. So, after checking, and rechecking, I looked at my instructor as I was squatting in a door 12,000 feet over California, and all I could say was "Let's see if these works." Then out you go.

Static lines are over pretty quick, and you're at the mercy of who packed your chute: how it opens, how the winds are... lots of things. HALO is all you. You don't really understand the first couple jumps, but what happened was that you just spent 4-5 minutes doing absolutely nothing but 100% saving your own life. And that makes you focused. That's the rush people feel. Normally, it's hard to get things out of your mind so you can think for yourself. It's pretty easy to get a clear head skydiving. 

Best jump?

Easy. Perris Valley, CA. We went out as a stick, six or so, and me and my Capt. decided we'd try to meet up in mid air. For two relatively new guys to learn how to fly their bodies and meet up in mid air in less than 40 seconds, and actually shake hands is a pretty awesome "suck it, James Bond" kind of feeling.

Worst jump?

Any static line. Period. 

Aside from cutting your hair, what was the hardest part about the training?

Cutting my hair is still the hardest part. The second hardest was accepting the impossible as possible, and that you can actually do these things. You have to think of it differently. You have to respect yourself more.

Think you'll see combat?

See combat? Depends on your definition, really. We fly over combat zones, but the enemy doesn't actually engage in combat. They set traps and then hide. Despite their ideals, they're actually cowards, and they don't stick around. The places we're fighting in right now don't' really have a structured military. It sounds harsh, but they hit us with hit and run tactics. It's quite possible, but in general it's about a 50-50 chance. We fly over combat zones all day, but what we do is react when something goes wrong, and bring everyone back. It depends if there's still enemy there.

Future Plans?

Hard to say really. I want to get my masters eventually, and surf a lot, but the great thing about PJ is there's always someplace to go, and there always seems to be more opportunities for you to do things. Live in the moment, really. Military takes a lot of planning. I hate planning. I want to have money to live out of a backpack traveling the world without a schedule, or job, to reel me back. Complete freedom is my future plan… and drinking lots of rum. 

Sounds good.

Carnets, Fixers & the Doc Gods: Filming On Location in Cambodia

Documentary filmmakers seem to thrive on the element of surprise. Many have chosen a field where the outcome of their projects is largely dependent on variables that are outside their control. Most times, the means doesn’t always guarantee an end, and for that matter, the end is seldom clearly seen. This penchant for “expecting the unexpected” requires that we think fast on our feet and demands that we live in the moment. Nowhere is this truer than in my recent trip to Cambodia – a country I’ve never traveled to, much less filmed in before. 

In January 2011, my crew and I traveled to Phnom Penh and Battambang to shoot a documentary on the emergence of contemporary arts in Cambodia. After a total of 25 hours of travel time including flight and layover, my cinematographer, Amanda Clifford, and I finally arrived at Phnom Penh International Airport. After waiting for my sound guy, Mason Thorne, to arrive from a separate flight, we finally passed through Immigration without a hitch thanks to the help of my cousin’s friend, an immigration officer who agreed to accompany us on his day off. Then we gathered our equipment and luggage (sans my cinematographer’s luggage which we found out later was left behind on a tarmac somewhere in Seattle) and headed toward two customs officers. 

As we walked toward the last checkpoint in what seemed like a pretty seamless process so far, I crossed my fingers and hoped that they didn’t ask for a carnet. You see, after some research and advice, I took the risk of not taking a carnet with me to Cambodia. You might ask, “What is a carnet” (pronounced car-nay)? Well, a carnet is simply a legal document that lists all your equipment and gear and certifies that you entered the country with your said equipment and gear as temporary imports. Ultimately, it protects you from paying duties. 

I was operating on a tight budget, and I didn’t want to pay for duty taxes that could cost me hundreds, if not thousands of dollars. Worse, I was told that they could take away my equipment if I didn’t have a carnet. There is a list of countries that require carnets, and fortunately, Cambodia is not one of them. However, the amount of equipment and type of project (whether it’s a small independent project vs. a big Hollywood feature) could determine whether or not you should apply for a temporary import license through the film commission or other governing body that issues them and in this case, Cambodia’s Ministry of Culture. Carrying a pelican case holding the HVX 200, tripod hard case, duffel bag full of camera gear, pelican case for sound gear, and boom pole also ensured that we looked innocent enough to be students and not “professionals”. 

Keeping my crew small and camera gear light also allowed us to pick up and go as needed. According to my friend Ratha Lim (who was also my “fixer” - something that I’ll go into more detail later), the processing of a temporary import license normally takes three weeks, and the fee for one is more expensive than actually renting equipment in Cambodia. These were reasons enough for me to take my chances and forego the carnet. Luckily, my cousin’s husband knew the two customs officers at the checkpoint, and with a smile and a wink, we passed through Cambodia’s customs without any problem. 

I finally relaxed knowing that we could keep our equipment and gear, thus allowing for the production to go on. Although Cambodia doesn’t require a carnet, I will caution that the U.S. does. In coming home and flying into Chicago’s O’Hare International Airport, we were asked by U.S. customs to provide a carnet. This could’ve been my moment of panic, but we explained that we were film students, and said, “Here, we have the proof to show it – our equipment list from Columbia College!” and after a few questions of interrogation; “Where did the equipment come from? Where did you travel to? Where did you buy the equipment?” the “doc gods” came through and U.S. customs let us pass. I plan on shooting abroad again, and when that time comes, I will definitely have a carnet for the return trip home to the U.S., not just to avoid paying duties, but to also avoid the menacing stares of U.S. customs officers. 

The invaluable lessons learned from this doc shoot in Cambodia did not stop with the carnet. Throughout the course of our trip, I also learned the asset of having a reliable fixer, someone who’s your inside person into the community you’re shooting your doc on; someone who can translate/interpret for you; or someone who has connections and can gain you easy access to people and events. I witnessed the advantage of having fixers when we first encountered the Cambodian immigration and customs officers. My relatives were essentially my fixers in that situation because their connections to immigration and customs saved us time and money. From that moment on, I knew they would be our saving grace in times of trouble in a foreign country. In short, rely on your fixers and treat them like gold.

As I mentioned earlier, my fixer and now friend Ratha, was helpful in pre-production (visiting the Cambodian Film Commission office and waiting for several hours to get answers on the import license) as well as during production. I met Ratha through my main subject, Linda Saphan, an artist who helped to cultivate the contemporary arts communities in Cambodia. Linda was in many ways also a fixer in that she referred me to people that would help me once I landed in Cambodia. Ratha has worked as an interpreter and translator for other productions such as Lara Croft: Tombraider. She runs a website called ladypenh.com that lists upcoming social events in the city of Phnom Penh so she’s well aware of whom to talk to and where the art galleries are located. Aside from the aspects of production, we also needed help on where to shop and where to eat. On our days off, we often went to the market to shop for souvenirs. Ratha was able to haggle for us in Khmer (Cambodia’s native language), helping us to avoid overpaying for things that are normally jacked up in price for Westerners. She also knew the best places to eat, in terms of price and quality. And for days that my crew missed eating Western food, she pointed us to places that would satiate their appetites, usually a French restaurant or a pizzeria (YES! There are pizzerias in Cambodia along with Kentucky Fried Chicken). 

Unforeseen events will happen and more than likely, it’s your fixer that will know someone or some place that will get you out of a bind. When we needed lights, Ratha came through by making numerous phone calls to find out where we could rent lights. Eventually, we ended up borrowing lights from Ratha’s friend – all for FREE. Aside from lights, we also needed blue gels. After Ratha made several phone calls, and a couple hours of driving around town, she found a local production studio to lend us their gels – again, all for FREE. Unplanned events will also ask for you to be flexible and problem solve in creative ways. There was an incident where on the day of her interview, my subject called to reschedule for another day. Not sure what to do next, I decided to spend the day searching for art galleries to shoot b-roll. Towards the early evening, we stumbled upon one gallery opening at Equinox bar where they were setting up an art exhibition, showcasing the works of students from an art school called Phare Ponleu Selpak in Battambang, located 181 miles outside of Phnom Penh. What were the chances that these students came from the art school that we would be visiting in the days ahead? At Equinox, we were able to shoot scenes and get vox pop from art patrons and the artists themselves – all of which was useful to our doc. Talk about synergy at work!!! We seized the moment and treated the day as an adventure. 

Being ever present to the sights and sounds around us, we came upon people who opened their hearts and their worlds to us, and we were the better for them. In the pre-production stage, we do our best to plan for foreseeable problems but we’re usually left, as we go along, collecting what feels like pieces to a puzzle. The prospect of dealing with potential challenges on a shoot can either lead to an anxiety attack, or it can lead to a place of serenity, trusting that you’ve done your prep work, and the rest is left up to the “doc gods”. In learning to let go in the moment, you’re also allowing events to work in your favor. All of this, tempered with the knowledge that lessons learned from one project will help you with the next project – wherever it may be. 

For more info on carnets (application, cost, processing time, etc.): http://www.uscib.org/index.asp?documentID=1843 

Cambodia Film Commission: http://www.cambodia-cfc.org 

Information on local events in Phnom Penh, Cambodia: http://www.ladypenh.com/

Food For Thought

When it comes to choosing a place to eat on your trip, I have one piece of advice: Go Local, or Go Home.

Food is an integral part of what makes every culture unique.  Even within the same country, different locations have their own regional cuisine.  Right here in the U.S. we've got Southern soul food, New England seafood, plenty of corn and beef in the Midwest, and various California style dishes that replace all the fatty stuff with chicken and avocados - not to mention all of the different neighborhood foods.  One of my favorite things about Chicago, is the grub.  There's Chinatown, Greektown, Little Italy, Mexican places in Pilsen with handmade tortillas, more pizza than you could ever eat, and countless hot dog vendors (don't ask for ketchup).

You always remember the things you see, and hear, in new places.  Don't sell your trip short by neglecting the experience of tasting and smelling new things.  Our senses of smell and taste create strong memories.  Think of your most recent trip, and no doubt, one of the meals you ate will come to mind.  Sampling the local food is an incredible way to get a deeper connection to the place you visit.

Cooking for yourself?  Hit the farmers' market for fresh cooking supplies while giving a boost to the local economy.  It also gives you the opportunity to talk to vendors about the region, and get some travel advice not found in the brochure.  Bonus experience points if you make an attempt at the local lingo.

There is one exception to the "Go Local, or Go Home" rule, though: homesickness.  If you've been gone for a while, there's nothing like a bite of a familiar dish that takes you back home.  For me, that's a hot pizza with a few cold beers.  What's yours?

A Plane Ticket, a Name, and a Number

The phone rang.  I saw the name of my internship supervisor on caller ID.  I assumed I was about to get another all-access pass to a concert.  God, I love this gig.  Who will I get to meet this time?

“Rick, I need a huge favor,” she said.  She was always a fast talker, but this was valley girl speed.   “My husband injured his leg, and is supposed to drive his parent’s Cadillac up from Florida tomorrow.  Could you get to O’Hare in two hours?  I’ll have a ticket waiting for you.  My son, Bryan, will pick you up in Fort Lauderdale.  He’ll be driving another car up for us as well, which you’ll follow behind.  I’ll text you his number.”  She also offered me $300 cash.  I was broke, and had just been told the summer job I had lined up fell through.  I’m the kind of person that would have said ‘yes’ to the proposition anyway, but that definitely sweetened the deal.

So, with a ticket waiting, a name, and a phone number, I packed my bag, kissed my girlfriend, and headed outside to hail a cab.  It was May, but still cold in Chicago.  Florida sounded nice.  My mom happened to call while I was waiting to board the plane.  It wasn’t the first time she unexpectedly heard I was traveling on short notice.  She gave the usual ‘be safe’ reply, and then my boarding announcement came over the loudspeaker. 

Sure, there was nothing that unique about my situation, but I still felt like I was in a movie.  I had my orders: my employer had made the travel arrangements, I was to make a phone call upon landing in a new city, and a stranger will be waiting for me… in a new Cadillac.  My Cadillac.  Mine at least for the next 1400 miles.  It was a Hell of an upgrade from my bicycle, and I was looking forward to it.

The whole thing went off without a hitch.  The airport was empty that late at night, and Bryan was easy enough to find.  The next morning I ate breakfast overlooking the harbor that Tiger Woods’s yacht was anchored off of.  It was huge.  I looked for manatees in the water, but it was too cold for them.  It felt great to me.  We stopped in Atlanta around 6pm that night to grab some Mexican food, a few beers, and check out a show at the local House of Blues.  The drive had been great that day.  I love driving through the South and watching the billboards alternately advertise for strippers, religion, porn, peaches, religion, strippers, religion, peaches.  It’s an interesting culture down there.  Sin, redeem, sin, eat, redeem, sin, redeem, eat.  Deciding on an exit is more introspective than it should be.  We decided to go with the peaches.

Aside from just missing a tornado after a lunch stop in Memphis, and hydroplaning through a flooded section of highway, the second day was uneventful.  I was home by 11pm.  The whole trip took less than 72 hours.

So, why share this story?

There's an old Mark Twain quote I like.  He states, “the thing that separates the lucky from the unlucky, is the willingness to take Lady Luck for a ride.”  It sounds like a fortune cookie, but hey, he's got a point.

The day after I returned home I hit the job boards again.  I had an extra $300 in my pocket, but I still needed to find some steady work.  My internship supervisor called to say ‘thanks again,’ and that she also had a summer job for me if I wanted it.  Luck prevailed, but only because I was willing to go for the ride.

- RA